Paris

Until November of 2001, my parents kept an apartment in Paris.  It was great, Paul and I went as often as we could (usually three to four times a year).  I'd move there in a heartbeat, only problem would be a source of income and Paul! 

(This picture was not in Paris but in Chantilly)

Some recommendations...

The Myth:  Parisians are rude and treat Americans poorly.  The truth:  I have never been treated poorly by a Parisian.  Of course I try to speak the language, never insist that they must know English, and always try to be polite. 

The Metro: http://www.paris.org/Metro/gifs/metro01.map.jpg this is the only way to get around.  The apartment was very close to Odeon stop.  The RER can also be found in many metro stops, it is the train that connects Paris to its suburbs (which are not the nice areas of town).  There are two lines out of Odeon, 4 and 10, ask for a map when you buy your packet of 10 tickets (a Carnet).  Ask for le carnee, and le plat - believe me the ticket sellers in the metro stations have heard enough bad accents to know what you are asking for.  At Odeon only one entrance sells tickets.   Also, be warned that many metro stops have a number of exits, it can be somewhat disorienting when you come out (take a compass, everything can begin to look the same).

The stations will have a number then the end destination of the line; for example, on line 10 you have a choice of 10 Guare de Austerlitz (Guare is a train station) or 10 Boulogne / Point de St Colud. Simply go down the tunnel to the train that is heading in the direction that you want to go then watch for your exit or transfer point once you get on.  Do not throw away your ticket until you have exited the station.  It is not unusual to get stopped by an officer as you are walking out; he just wants to see your canceled ticket.

The RER works the same way as the Metro, they just go further out of the city.

Museums and Cathedrals (most are closed on Tuesdays):

Map with museum locations and information:  http://www.paris.org/Maps/MM/

Louvre - just the high points, don't try and do too much - you will get museum burn-out (metro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre)

D'Orsay - impressionists (best museum in Paris, in my opinion) RER: Musée d'Orsay / Metro: Solférino address: 1, rue de Bellechasse, 62, rue de Lille, Paris 75007 (the last number in an address, 07 in this case, is the Arrondissement, or section of the city, in which the property is located - makes it very easy to get around).

Rodin - only if you have time and like sculpture. Metro: Varenne / RER: Invalides address: 77, rue de Varenne , 75007 Paris

Cluny - medieval including the Unicorn tapestries.  The building is an old castle, very interesting Metro: Cluny-La Sorbonne 
RER: Saint-Michel-Notre Dame address: 6, place Paul Painlevé , 75005 Paris

L'Orangerie - Monet's Waterlilies downstairs in 2 rooms amazing, if you like Monet address: Place de la Concorde, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st Arrondissement, Métro stop: Concorde

Sainte Chappelle - upstairs, stained glass windows equivalent to 3 basketball courts of glass, go on a sunny afternoon (close to Notre Dame)

Notre Dame Metro:Cité / RER: Châtelet-Les Halles, Saint Michel-Notre Dame (easy walk from hotel) address: Place du parvis de Notre Dame , 75004 Paris

The museums are great places for lunch, especially the Musee d'Orsay, Louvre (café Marly), or the Musee Rodin (the rose garden café).

Take a boat trip one evening, departing from the island off Pont Neuf.  Do not have dinner on board.

Fabulous and free view from the top of the department store, Samaritaine (19 Rue de la Monnaie, 1st Arrondissement.   Métro stop: Pont Neuf. just across the Sein at Point Neuf.   Be sure to go one flight up from the outdoor café.  The stairs are a little hard to find.  Eat one evening at Samaritaine, reserving a table by the window.  Great food and great view.

Go early to the Eiffel Tower to try and avoid the very long lines.

Stroll the Champs Elysees at night (even better find a table outdoors, have some wine and watch the parade of people).

Ride the Ferris wheel at night at the Place de Concorde (yuck, but those who are not phased by heights seem to like it)

Have a drink at the Café Bastille (Place de la Bastille, 12th Arrondissement, Métro stop: Bastille)

Stroll through the Marais, start at the Pompedu, Plateau Beaubourg, 4th Arrondissement, Métro stop: Hôtel-de-Ville, Rambuteau, Châtelet (do not get too far into the 4th - towards the 3rd, some of the 3rd is nasty)

Luxembourg Gardens Jardins du Luxembourg, 75006 Paris, beautiful old palace where the senate meets.  Great people watching, boules, kids on ponies, etc.  RER: Luxembourg, Port Royal.  I like the Luxembourg Gardens much more than the Tuilleries (where the picture to the left was taken).

Places we like to eat:  (the apartment was on the left bank, in the 6th) all of these are near the apartment:

Le Buci, (located on corner on Buci and Mazarine), good breakfast, great coffee, fun people watching in the evening.

Alcazar on rue Mazarine, trendy fun.

Le Cafetiere on rue Mazarine, great food – can’t go wrong (downstairs is better than up; too smoky upstairs)

Bistro Mazarine on the corner of Mazarine and Guenegaud - country French cooking, always packed at night

Les Bookenists - Quai des Grand Augustins, best deal in the city (upscale atmosphere and food at very reasonable prices).

Shopping:

Go to the square in front of the Ritz (amazing shops) Place Vendôme, 1st Arrondissement.
Métro stop: Tuileries, Madeleine.

Don't miss Printemps 64, boulevard Haussmann, 8th Arrondissement  Métro stop: Havre-Caumartin, OpéraOpened in the 1870's - together with other grands magazine (department stores). It's 6th floor tea salon - Brasserie Flo - is beneath a belle époque stained glass rotunda. and Galeries Lafayette 40, boulevard Haussmann Galeries Lafayette has a beautiful glass and steel dome, and Art Nouveau staircase built in 1912 by the architect Cahnautin. The store - all 10 stories of it - is classified as an historic monument.

Both of these stores are amazing structures.

Very good website for information:  http://www.paris.org/